I have been searching for the perfect fitting cami for a while as I’m trying to build up my basics in my wardrobe. Previously I have tried several attempts at the Sew Over It ‘Silk Cami’ but the fit across my chest above my bust is terrible. I have gone up a size and even added a bust dart but still no luck. I have seen many versions of the True Bias Ogden Cami on instagram and I was itching to make it so I added it to my #2018makenine plans. This is my third make from my 9, January is becoming a very productive start to the year.
The Fabric: I picked this beautiful mustard crepe from my local fabric shop – Sew Me Me in Ashby de la Zouch. Donna has a magnificent selection of fabrics, colourful cottons, jerseys, liberty and she is increasing her stock of dressmaking fabrics all the time. I love to pop in and have a glance and stroke of all the beautiful fabrics. This crepe has a wonderful drape to it and made it a perfect choice for the Ogden Cami. I am trying to build solids into my wardrobe too as I do have a pattern obsession and it seems I always go straight to the patterns when sewing.
The Pattern: I used NetPrinter to print my A0 pattern again. I don’t think I will ever go back to printing and sticking my PDF patterns ever again!! When I took my measurements I was between a size 8 and 10. Many people have told me that it was true to size so I went with the size 8. Its my first pattern from True Bias and the instructions and illustrations were very clear. I had to get my head around the use of inches in the seam allowance (I am a metric girl through and through).
The Sew Up: As it was my first True Bias pattern, I made a wearable toile from some fabric that I picked up from Birmingham Rag Market in the summer for 50p a metre!! The first challenge was the thin straps. I used the technique that I had watched online from SewEssential using the overlocker. Run off a length of overlocking thread and then sit it inside the strap. Overlock the edges and then pull the main thread to turn the strap the right way through. I’ve added the link to this video. The illustrations are simple and very easy to follow. I added 3cm to the length from the toile and also 3cm to the lining so that it fell just below my bust rather than on it. When trying to attach the strap to the back, I just kept twisting it, so I deviated from the instructions here. I turned the top the right way, poked the strap into the back bodice, grabbed it from the inside and turned it back around. I top stitched the toile as the fabric was slightly bouncy, but with my main top, I cut the seam allowance down before understitching. Both methods have produced a lovely finish.
The Finished Top: I am truly in love with this pattern! It has not let me down on the fit and it fits perfectly across my chest and bust. I like to wear high waisted trousers and my the cami skims nicely. The added length to the main top allows me to tuck it in, a look I do like. The lack of a bust dart creates no issues and I like how it falls from the bust and it’s floaty around the waist. The dipped back is a flattering feature. I just want to make another! I already have plans to make another from some fabric that I picked up two years ago whilst on holiday in Holland and I have been saving it to make up something special. I am also looking at the other True Bias patterns and like the look of the Southport dress for summer and the Hudson Pants both male and female. Maybe my hubby will finally have a homemade garment that he’s been asking for.